Walking

Phnom Penh is not a nice city to walk in. It is hot, the streets are in poor condition, and there is very little courtesy extended to people who walk. On the ladder of who has power on the roadways walkers are at the bottom; behind big trucks, cars, motos, and then cyclists in that order. So, I am impressed by the walkers who not only walk long distances every day, but they also do so pulling a cart and collecting recyclables from the side of the street (or selling food). One of the things that really impresses me about these walkers is that they do not have any kind  of detectable negative attitude. When I interact with them they smile and say thank you. Also, when I have seen children with them (which is not uncommon) the children always seem to be happy.

This morning I noticed something for the first time. From my balcony I can see the train tracks and shacks line both sides of the tracks (no more than 10 feet from either side). But what I noticed for the first time today is that a lot of the shacks had cars parked by them. I was really surprised by this because I had assumed that only the wealthiest people in Phnom Penh had cars. (It seems to me like the ratio of motos to cars is somewhere between 10:1 -15:1.) But here, in the poorest area, where people live in shacks no bigger than a garage, with no running water or air conditioning, and garbage strewn all over the place - many of these people have cars.

Car taking up someone's full house space

Most of these "houses" also serve as businesses: e.g. sewing or selling food.

Woman with food cart (much smaller than recycle carts)

Laundry and garbage is strewn all along the train tracks

 

On Friday night I went to a movie house called “Flicks”. Movies at Flicks are played in English and admission is $3.50 for the whole day (they usually show three movies per day). The theatre seats about 30 and is mostly futons and pillows thrown on the floor, and bench seating in the very back row. It is very comfortable and cozy. For the Friday showing of “Backwards” there were only three of us in the theatre; a woman from Spain and a man from England. The film was a touching story about a 30 year old rower who had hopes to be in the Olympics. Despite talent and amazing work ethic she was only able to make the alternate slot. So, she quit the team and began coaching at a high school where she found happiness for the first time in many years. Then there was an injury on the Olympic team and she was offered spot on the boat which would have meant leaving her coaching position early. I found myself in tears at the end of the movie. I was deeply moved by the difficult decisions and sacrifices that had to be made. After the lights went up I was in the foyer talking with the man from England and he said, “Well, I am glad I only spent $3.50 for that!” I told him that I liked the movie to which he replied that it was shallow rubbish.  

I have been enjoying coffee at “Browns” lately. Their coffee is at least as good as Starbucks and the atmosphere and food are much better. As I walked out today I noticed someone feasting on a bowl of noodles with shrimp that looked scrumptious.

Graffiti outside Flicks movie house

Coffee and pastry at Browns

I have applied for a Programme Manager job with VSO and the application deadline is tomorrow. Hopefully I will hear something from them this week. If not, I may need to taper back on seeing shallow rubbish movies at Flicks and coffee at Browns.