In Cambodia it is widely anticipated that this Saturday
there will be a large crowd demonstrating against the processes in the recent election. I have
noticed a substantial increase in large flatbed trucks carrying dozens of armed
military guards wearing protective helmets with facemasks. It can be quite an
intimidating sight. I will try to covertly take a picture of one of these trucks
and will post it here.
This week I began taking Khmer language lessons. I
appreciate that the lessons began with talking about some of the traditional
and current Khmer cultural norms – especially those which differ from American
culture. For example, it is not normal in Cambodia, as it is in the States, to
begin a conversation by exchanging names and shaking hands. In Khmer culture it
would be unusual to have any physical contact when greeting someone – no
shaking hands, hugging, or kissing cheeks. It is also unusual to say your name
or ask the other person what their name is. Instead, people in Cambodia typically
greet one another with their hands folded together at the center of the chest (as in prayer) and
give a slight bow while saying in Khmer “how are you”. It is really more of a
statement than a question because it is seldom answered with “good”, “well”,
“ok”, or “not so good”. Instead, it is generally answered by repeating “how are
you”. Khmer for this sounds like “soc sa bye”.
In Khmer culture, unlike in American culture, it is also
quite common to ask people when you first see them: where did you just come
from? Have you eaten? (In Khmer the question about where did you come from
sounds like “mao pee nah?”) It is also quite common to ask someone you have
just met questions like: how old are you?
Are you married? (In Khmer these questions sound like “au juice man?”
and “Mean cruel sah hi no?”). In Khmer culture there is also heavy distinction
given for age. When addressing people with statements or questions there is
usually a title for the other person included in the statement/question; and
the title will vary depending on age. For example, people who are younger than
me I would address with titles that sound like B’own Sray (female) and B’own
Prah (male). For people about my age:
Bong Sray and Bong Prah. For people one generation older (e.g. aunt or uncle)
with titles that sound like: Mehen (woman) and Boo (man); and for elders (e.g.
grandparent and older) with a title that sounds like: Uhm. So, to ask a man who
appears to be about my age how old he is I would say: Bong Prah au juice man? While
my teacher (naht crew – for female teacher; low crew for male teacher) has been
quite insistent upon the inclusion of titles I have noticed, however, that the
Cambodian Nationals that I have been trying out my Khmer on do not typically
use titles. I am also told that I have a strong accent and that I often mispronounce
words badly and am difficult to understand.
Chewa knear bayer groud (see you next time).
In India too till I left there all conversations started like that:where did you just come from? Have you eaten? In part this was many used to walk for long distances to reach you, and sometimes people came to visit as they did not have enough to eat in their own house. In case of names, the women are always addressed as Mother of 1st born child, so my mom was addressed as "mother of Ben". The men had titles if they had authorative significance,ie if they worked in a unique field, everyone else was son of.....Peace.
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